Cosmetic compositions containing Rooibus tea extract

ABSTRACT

A cosmetic composition comprising Rooibus tea extract in combination with at least one protective agent which is a daytime protective agent, a night time protective agent, or mixtures thereof and methods for exfoliating skin and treating menopausal or peri-menopausal skin.

TECHNICAL FIELD

The invention is in the field of compositions for treatment of skin.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Treatment of keratinous surfaces such as skin with various types ofbotanical extracts is well known. As women age, cosmetics companies arebecoming more interested in incorporating botanical extracts into skintreatment products because, in many cases, these extracts are believedto contain very minute amounts of ingredients that exert a beneficialeffect on the skin. One beneficial effect sought in those who use skincare products is exfoliation. In general, gentle exfoliation ofsuperficial keratinous skin cells results in smooth, clear, luminousskin. While there are a variety of exfoliating ingredients available,such as alpha hydroxy acids, sometimes these acidic ingredients causeskin irritation or dryness. Accordingly, there is a need to findnaturally occuring materials that will provide a skin exfoliating effectwithout causing irritation or dryness. Further, it is desirable toformulate cosmetic products containing such exfoliants with additionalingredients that maximize the effectiveness of the exfoliant and protectthe skin from the effects of exfoliation treatment.

There is also a need to provide skin care compositions that arebeneficial in treating the adverse effects of menopause andperi-menopause on the skin. Such effects include skin laxity, dryness,yellowing, age spots, wrinkles, lines, and discolorations.

It has been discovered that a particular extract from Rooibus tea isbeneficial in exfoliating skin and treating some of the skin conditionsassociated with menopause or peri-menopause.

It is an object of the invention to provide a method for exfoliatingskin with a naturally occurring botanical extract, in particular Rooibustea.

If is a further object of the invention to provide a method forexfoliating skin and ameliorating the effects of exfoliation on skin bypreparing cosmetic compositions containing the exfoliating agent,Rooibus tea extract, in combination with protective agents.

It is a further object to provide a composition for treating the adverseskin conditions associated with menopause and peri-menopause.

It is a further object of the invention to provide cosmetic compositionsthat contain Rooibus tea extract in combination with protective agents.

It is a further object of the invention to provide a cosmeticcomposition and method for treating the adverse effects of aging on skinwith an extract from Rooibus tea.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The invention is directed to a cosmetic composition comprising anextract from Rooibus tea in combination with at least one protectiveagent, which is a daytime protective agent, a night time protectiveagent, or mixtures thereof.

The invention is also directed to a method for exfoliating thesuperficial keratin layers of skin comprising applying to the skin acosmetic composition containing an effective amount of Rooibus teaextract.

The invention further comprises a method for ameliorating the adverseeffects of estrogen loss on skin or lips pursuant to menopause orperi-menopause, comprising treating the skin with a compositioncontaining Rooibus tea extract.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

The term “keratinous surface” means skin, hair, nails, or lips. The term“skin” when used herein means both the facial, neck, and body skin aswell as lips. The compositions of the invention may be anhydrous, or inthe emulsion form. If the latter, the emulsions may be water-in-oil oroil-in-water. Suitable water-in-oil emulsions contain about 0.1–95%,preferably about 0.5–85%, more preferably about 5–85% by weight of thetotal composition of water and about 0.1–99%, preferably about 1–90%,more preferably about 3–85% by weight of the total composition of oil.The term “protective agent” means an ingredient or combination ofingredients that maximizes the effectiveness of the Rooibus tea extracton the skin by either promoting better penetration of the extract intothe skin, better retaining the extract on the skin, prevent thedegradation of the extract on the skin or ameliorating the effects ofsunlight and other environmental conditions on skin that is beingtreated with exfoliating agents.

A. The Rooibus Tea Extract

The Rooibus tea extract used in the claimed method and compositions ispreferably obtained from the Aspalanthus Linearis, a shrub that isindigenous to South Africa. The Rooibus tea extract may be presentranging from about 0.0001–25%, preferably about 0.0005–20%, morepreferably about 0.001–18% by weight of the total composition. Suitableextract is available from a variety of sources including Premier, Inc.The extract may be obtained from all parts of the plant includingflowers, leaves, roots, and the like. Particularly preferred is aRooibus tea extract obtained from leaves of Aspalanthus Linearis. Theextract may be present in an aqueous solution or suspension containingother ingredients in addition to water, such as glycols, etc. Preferablythe Rooibus tea extract is free of caffeine and contains one or moreminerals selected from copper, zinc, iron, potassium, calcium, fluoride,manganese, magnesium, or mixtures thereof.

B. The Day Time Protective Agent

The term “day time protective agent” means an agent which enhances theefficacy of the Rooibus tea extract when the composition used by aconsumer who is engaging in typical day time activities. The day timeprotective agent may enhance the efficacy of the Rooibus tea extract byreducing the tendency of the UV rays to degrade the extract components,by interacting chemically with the extract components to provideadditional UV activity, by ameliorating the tendency of elements such aswind and rain to reduce the efficacy of the extract on the skin, orotherwise protecting exfoliated skin from being overly prone to sunburnor windburn.

The day time protective agent includes a chemical or physical sunscreen.Suitable day time protective agents include UVA and UVB chemicalsunscreens and/or physical sunscreens.

1. UVA Chemical Sunscreens

The day time protective agent preferably comprises at least one UVAsunscreen. The term “UVA sunscreen” means a chemical compound thatblocks UV radiation in the wavelength range of about 320 to 400 nm.Preferred UVA sunscreens are dibenzoylmethane compounds having thegeneral formula:

wherein R₁ is H, OR and NRR wherein each R is independently H, C₁₋₂₀straight or branched chain alkyl; R₂ is H or OH; and R₃ is H, C₁₋₂₀straight or branched chain alkyl

Preferred is where R₁ is OR where R is a C₁₋₂₀ straight or branchedalkyl, preferably methyl; R₂ is H; and R₃ is a C₁₋₂₀ straight orbranched chain alkyl, more preferably, butyl.

Examples of suitable UVA sunscreen compounds of this general formulainclude 4-methyldibenzoylmethane, 2-methyldibenzoylmethane,4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane,2,4-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 2,5-dimethyldibenzoylmethane,4,4′diisopropylbenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane,4,4′-diisopropylbenzoylmethane,2-methyl-5-isorpoyl-4′-methoxydibenzoymethane,2-metyl-5-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane, and so on. Particularlypreferred is 4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane, also referred toas Avobenzone. Avobenzone is commercial available from Givaudan-Roureunder the trademark Parsol 1789, and Merck & Co. under the tradenameEusolex 9020.

The claimed compositions may contain from about 0.001–20% , preferably0.005–5%, more preferably about 0.005–3% by weight of the composition ofUVA sunscreen. In the preferred embodiment of the invention the UVAsunscreen is Avobenzone, and it is present at not greater than about 3%by weight of the total composition.

2. UVB Chemical Sunscreens

The term “UVB sunscreen” means a compound that blocks UV radiation inthe wavelength range of from about 290 to 320 nm. A variety of UVBchemical sunscreens exist including α-cyano-β,β-diphenyl acrylic acidesters as set forth in U.S. Pat. No. 3,215,724, which is herebyincorporated by reference in its entirety. Particularly preferred isOctocrylene, which is 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate.Preferred is where the composition contains no more than about 10% byweight of the total composition of octocrylene. Suitable amounts rangefrom about 0.001–10% by weight. Octocrylene may be purchased from BASFunder the tradename Uvinul N-539.

Other suitable sunscreens include benzylidene camphor derivatives as setforth in U.S. Pat. No. 3,781,417, which is hereby incorporated byreference in its entirety. Such benzylidene camphor derivatives have thegeneral formula:

wherein R is p-tolyl or styryl, preferably styryl. Particularlypreferred is 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, which is a lipid soluble UVBsunscreen compound sold under the tradename Eusolex 6300 by Merck.

Also suitable are cinnamate derivatives having the general formula:

wherein R and R₁ are each independently a C₁₋₂₀ straight or branchedchain alkyl. Preferred is where R is methyl and R₁ is a branched chainC₁₋₁₀, preferably C₈ alkyl. The preferred compound is ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate, also referred to as Octoxinate or octylmethoxycinnamate. The compound may be purchased from GivaudanCorporation under the tradename Parsol MCX, or BASF under the tradenameUvinul MC 80. Also suitable are mono-, di-, and triethanolaminederivatives of such methoxy cinnamates including diethanolaminemethoxycinnamate. Cinoxate, the aromatic ether derivative of the abovecompound is also acceptable. If present, the Cinoxate should be found atnor more than about 3% by weight of the total composition.

Also suitable as the UVB screening agents are various benzophenonederivatives having the general formula:

R through R₉ are each independently H, OH, NaO₃S, SO3H, SO3Na, Cl, R″,OR″ where R″ is C1–20 straight or branched chain alkyl. Examples of suchcompounds include Benzophenone 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and12. Particularly preferred is where the benzophenone derivative isBenzophenone 3 (also referred to as Oxybenzone) and Benzophenone 4 (alsoreferred to as Sulisobenzone), Benzophenone 5 (Sulisobenzone Sodium),and the like. Most preferred is Benzophenone 3.

Also suitable are certain menthyl salicylate derivatives having thegeneral formula:

wherein R₁, R₂, R₃, and R₄ are each independently H, OH, NH₂, or C₁₋₂₀straight or branched chain alkyl. Particularly preferred is where R₁,R₂, and R₃ are methyl and R₄ is hydroxyl or NH₂, the compound having thename homomenthyl salicylate (also known as homosalate) or menthylanthranilate. Homosalate is available commercially from Merck under thetradename Eusolex HMS and menthyl anthranilate is commercially availablefrom Haarmann & Reimer under the tradename Heliopan. If present, theHomosalate should be found at no more than about 15% by weight of thetotal composition.

Various amino benzoic acid derivatives are suitable UVB absorbersincluding those having the general formula:

Wherein R₁, R₂, and R₃ are each independently H, C₁₋₂₀ straight orbranched chain alkyl which may be substituted with one or more hydroxygroups. Particularly preferred is wherein R₁ is H or C₁₋₈ straight orbranched alkyl, and R₂ and R₃ are H, or C₁₋₈ straight or branched chainalkyl. Particularly preferred are PABA, ethyl hexyl dimethyl PABA(Padimate O), ethyldihydroxypropyl PABA, and the like. If presentPadimate O should be found at no more than about 8% by weight of thetotal composition.

Salicylate derivatives are also acceptable UVB absorbers. Such compoundshave the general formula:

wherein R is a straight or branched chain alkyl, including derivativesof the above compound formed from mono-, di-, or triethanolamines.Particular preferred are octyl salicylate, TEA-salicylcate,DEA-salicylate, and mixtures thereof.

Generally, the amount of the UVB chemical sunscreen present may rangefrom about 0.001–45%, preferably 0.005–40%, more preferably about0.01–35% by weight of the total composition.

3. Physical Sunscreens

The day time protective agent may also include one or more physicalsunscreens. The term “physical sunscreen” means a material that isgenerally particulate in form that is able to block UV rays by formingan actual physical block on the skin. Examples of particulates thatserve as solid physical sunblocks include titanium dioxide, zinc oxideand the like in particle sizes ranging from about 0.001–150 microns.

In general, it is preferred that the claimed compositions contain SPFvalues ranging from about 1–30, preferably about 2–20, most preferablyabout 3–18. Calculation of SPF values is well known in the art.

C. The Night Time Protective Agent

Suitable night time protective agents that facilitate efficacy of theRooibus extract on the skin by either promoting absorption of theextract into the skin by contributing to form a substantive layer of thecosmetic composition containing the extract onto the skin. Thesubstantive layer keeps the active ingredients, including the extract,on the skin surface and facilitates absorption of such actives into theskin or retention of such actives on the skin surface so they can betterperform their intended function. Such ingredients may also be referredto as skin penetration enhancers in that they promote penetration ofactives into the skin due to the substantive effect they provide on theskin. Examples of such materials include silicone oils, semi-solid orsolid waxy materials, triglycerides, esters, paraffinic hydrocarbons,and the like. Preferably the night time protective agent is found in theclaimed composition in ranges of from about 0.1–75%, preferably about0.5–50%, more preferably about 1–40% by weight of the total composition.Such night time protective agents include those further describedherein.

1. Silicone Oils

Particularly suitable as the protective agent are various types ofsilicone oils including water soluble or water insoluble volatile ornon-volatile silicone oils. The term “volatile” means that the siliconehas a measureable vapor pressure, i.e. a vapor pressure of at least 2mm. of mercury at 20° C. If volatile, the silicone generally will have aviscosity of about 0.5 to 25 centistokes at 25° C. Suitable volatilesilicones include cyclic silicones, linear silicones, or mixturesthereof. Cyclic silicones (or cyclomethicones) are of the generalformula:

where n=3–6.

Linear volatile silicones in accordance with the invention have thegeneral formula:(CH₃)₃Si—O—[Si(CH₃)₂—O]_(n)—Si(CH₃)₃where n=0–6, preferably 0–5.

Linear and cyclic volatile silicones are available from variouscommercial sources including Dow Coming Corporation and GeneralElectric. The Dow Corning volatile silicones are sold under thetradenames Dow Coming 244, 245, 344, and 200 fluids. These fluidscomprise octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,hexamethyldisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

The silicone may also be nonvolatile, and in particular water insolublenonvolatile silicones. The term “nonvolatile” means that the siliconehas a vapor pressure of less than 2 mm. of mercury at 20° C. A varietyof silicones fit this definition including dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, hexadecyl methicone,stearoxydimethicone, stearyl dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone, and so on.Preferred is where the nonvolatile silicone, if present, has a viscosityranging from about 5–1,000,000 centistokes at 20° C., more preferablyabout 50–500,000 centistokes at 20° C.

2. Esters

Suitable protective agents also include various types of esters. Ingeneral such esters have the formula RCO—OR wherein each R isindependently a C₁₋₂₅ straight or branched chain saturated orunsaturated alkyl, alkylcarbonyloxyalkyl, or alkoxycarbonylalkyl, aryl,which may be substituted or unsubstituted with halogen, hydroxyl, alkyl,and the like.

Examples of suitable esters include alkyl acetates, alkyl behenates,alkyl lactates, alkyl benzoates, alkyl octanoates, alkyl salicylates,and in particular C₁₂₋₁₅ alkyl benzoate. Examples of further esters areset forth on pages 1670–1676 of the CTFA International CosmeticIngredient Handbook, Eighth Edition, 2000, which is hereby incorporatedby reference.

3. Fats and Oils

Fats and oils are also suitable as protective agents. They may befurther defined as glyceryl esters of fatty acids (triglycerides), aswell as the synthetically prepared esters of glycerin and fatty acidshaving the following general formula:

wherein R, R′, and R″ are each independently fatty acid radicals.Examples of such materials include oils such as apricot kernel oil,avocado oil, canola oil, olive oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, soybean oil,trilinolenin, trilinolein, trioctanoin, tristearin, triolein, sesameoil, rapeseed oil, sunflower seed oil, and so on.

4. Fatty Acids

Fatty acids may also serve as protective agents. Fatty acids are thecarboxylic acids obtained by hydrolysis of animal or vegetable fats andoils. Carboxylic acids having alkyl chains shorter than about sevencarbon atoms are not generally considered fatty acids. Fatty acids havethe general structure R—COOH where R is a straight or branched chainsaturated or unsaturated C₇₋₆₅ alkyl. Examples of suitable fatty acidsinclude arachidic acid, arachidonic acid, behenic acid, capric acid,caproic acid, caprylic acid, coconut acid, corn acid, cottonseed acid,hydrogenated coconut acid, hydroxystearic acid, lauric acid, linoleicacid, linolenic acid, linseed acid, myristic acid, oleic acid, palmiticacid, palm kernel acid, soy acid, tallow acid, and the like.

5. Fatty Alcohols

Suitable fatty alcohols include those made by reducing the fatty acid—COOH group to the hydroxyl function. They generally have the formulaRCH₂OH. Examples of fatty alcohols are behenyl alcohol, C₉₋₁₁ alcohol,C₁₂₋₁₃ alcohol, C₁₂₋₁₅ alcohol, C₁₂₋₁₆ alcohol, caprylic alcohol,cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, decyl alcohol, laurylalcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and the like.

6. Hydrocarbons

Hydrocarbons also serve as good skin penetrants for use as the nighttime protective agent. Hydrocarbons are generally chemically inert.Examples of suitable hydrocarbons include C₇₋₆₀ isoparaffins, ethane,heptane, hexane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isobutane, isododecane,isoeicosane, isohexadecane, isopentane, microcrystalline wax, mineraloil, mineral spirits, paraffin, petrolatum, petroleum distillates,squalene, polyethylene, and mixtures thereof. Preferred hydrocarbons aremineral oil and polyethylene.

Preferred is where the night time protective agents are silicone oil,fatty alcohols, esters, fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

D. Other Ingredients

The claimed composition may contain other ingredients in addition to theRooibus tea extract, day time protective agent, and night timeprotective agents. Such ingredients include other botanical extracts,humectants, preservatives, polymers, particulates, surfactants, and thelike.

1. Organic Surfactants

Preferably, the claimed compositions contain one or more surfactantsincluding those having anionic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, orcationic moieties. The organic surfactant, if present, should range fromabout 0.001–30%, preferably about 0.005–25%, preferably about 0.01–20%by weight of the total composition. The compositions of the inventionpreferably comprise about 0.01–20%, preferably about 0.1–15%, morepreferably about 0.5–10% by weight of the total composition of asurfactant. Particularly preferred are one or more nonionic surfactantsor emulsifiers including alkoxylated alcohols, or ethers, formed by thereaction of an alcohol with an alkylene oxide, usually ethylene orpropylene oxide. Preferably the alcohol is either a fatty alcohol having6 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples of such ingredients include Beheneth5–30, which is formed by the reaction of behenyl alcohol and ethyleneoxide where the number of repeated ethylene oxide units is 5 to 30;Ceteareth 2–100, formed by the reaction of a mixture of cetyl andstearyl alcohol with ethylene oxide, where the number of repeatingethylene oxide units in the molecule is 2 to 100; Ceteth 1–45 which isformed by the reaction of cetyl alcohol and ethylene oxide, and thenumber of repeating ethylene oxide units is 1 to 45, and so on. Otheralkoxylated alcohols are formed by the reaction of fatty acids andmono-, di- or polyhydric alcohols with an alkylene oxide. For example,the reaction products of C₆₋₃₀ fatty carboxylic acids and polyhydricalcohols which are monosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, methylglucose, and the like, with an alkoxylated alcohol.

Also suitable as the nonionic surfactant are alkyoxylated carboxylicacids, which are formed by the reaction of a carboxylic acid with analkylene oxide or with a polymeric ether. The resulting products havethe general formula:

where RCO is the carboxylic ester radical, X is hydrogen or lower alkyl,and n is the number of polymerized alkoxy groups. In the case of thediesters, the two RCO— groups do not need to be identical. Preferably, Ris a C₆₋₃₀ straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl,and n is from 1–100.

Also suitable as the nonionic surfactant are monomeric, homopolymericand block copolymeric ethers. Such ethers are formed by thepolymerization of monomeric alkylene oxides, generally ethylene orpropylene oxide. Such polymeric ethers have the following generalformula:

wherein R is H or lower alkyl and n is the number of repeating monomerunits, and ranges from 1 to 500.

Other suitable nonionic surfactants include alkoxylated sorbitan andalkoxylated sorbitan derivatives. For example, alkoxylation, inparticular, ethoxylation, of sorbitan provides polyalkoxylated sorbitanderivatives. Esterification of polyalkoxylated sorbitan providessorbitan esters such as the polysorbates. Examples of such ingredientsinclude Polysorbates 20–85, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan palmitate,sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan stearate, and so on.

Also suitable as nonionic surfactants are silicone surfactants, whichare defined as silicone polymers which have at least one hydrophilicradical and at least one lipophilic radical. The silicone surfactantsmay be a liquid or solid at room temperature and are generally of thewater-in-oil or oil-in-water type. Preferably, they have anHydrophile/Lipophile Balance (HLB) of 2 to 18. Preferably theorganosiloxane is a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 2 to 12,preferably 2 to 10, most preferably 4 to 6. The HLB of a nonionicsurfactant is the balance between the hydrophilic and lipophilicportions of the surfactant and is calculated according to the followingformula:HLB=7+11.7×log M _(w) /M _(o)where M_(w) is the molecular weight of the hydrophilic group portion andM_(o) is the molecular weight of the lipophilic group portion.

The term “organosiloxane polymer” means a polymer containing a polymericbackbone including repeating siloxy units that may have cylic, linear orbranched repeating units, e.g. di(lower)alkylsiloxy units, preferablydimethylsiloxy units. The hydrophilic portion of the organosiloxane isgenerally achieved by substitution onto the polymeric backbone of aradical that confers hydrophilic properties to a portion of themolecule. The hydrophilic radical may be substituted on a terminus ofthe polymeric organosiloxane, or on any one or more repeating units ofthe polymer. In general, the repeating dimethylsiloxy units of modifiedpolydimethylsiloxane emulsifiers are lipophilic in nature due to themethyl groups, and confer lipophilicity to the molecule. In addition,longer chain alkyl radicals, hydroxy-polypropyleneoxy radicals, or othertypes of lipophilic radicals may be substituted onto the siloxy backboneto confer further lipophilicity and organocompatibility. If thelipophilic portion of the molecule is due in whole or part to a specificradical, this lipophilic radical may be substituted on a terminus of theorganosilicone polymer, or on any one or more repeating units of thepolymer. It should also be understood that the organosiloxane polymer inaccordance with the invention should have at least one hydrophilicportion and one lipophilic portion.

The term “hydrophilic radical” means a radical that, when substitutedonto the organosiloxane polymer backbone, confers hydrophilic propertiesto the substituted portion of the polymer. Examples of radicals thatwill confer hydrophilicity are hydroxy-polyethyleneoxy, hydroxyl,carboxylates, and mixtures thereof.

The term “lipophilic radical” means an organic radical that, whensubstituted onto the organosiloxane polymer backbone, confers lipophilicproperties to the substituted portion of the polymer. Examples oforganic radicals which will conver lipophilicity are C₁₋₄₀ straight orbranched chain alkyl, fluoro, aryl, aryloxy, C₁₋₄₀ hydrocarbyl acyl,hydroxy-polypropyleneoxy, or mixtures thereof. The C₁₋₄₀ alkyl may benon-interrupted, or interruped by one or more oxygen atoms, a benzenering, amides, esters, or other functional groups.

The polymeric organosiloxane surfactant used in the invention may haveany of the following general formulas:M_(x)Q_(y), orM_(x)T_(y), orMD_(x)D′_(y)D″_(z)Mwherein each M is independently a substituted or unsubstitutedtrimethylsiloxy endcap unit. If substituted, one or more of thehydrogens on the endcap methyl groups are substituted, or one or moremethyl groups are substituted with a substituent that is a lipophilicradical, a hydrophilic radical, or mixtures thereof. T is atrifunctional siloxy unit having the empirical formula RR′SiO_(1.5) orRRSiO_(1.5). Q is a quadrifunctional siloxy unit having the empiricalformula SiO₂, and D, D′, D″, x, y, and z are as set forth below, withthe proviso that the compound contains at least one hydrophilic radicaland at least one lipophilic radical. Preferred is a linear silicone ofthe formula:MD_(x)D′_(y)D″_(z)Mwherein M=RRRSiO_(1/2)D and D′=RR′SiO_(2/2)D″=RRSiO_(2/2)x, y, and z are each independently 0–1000,where R is methyl or hydrogen, and R′ is a hydrophilic radical or alipophilic radical, with the proviso that the compound contains at leastone hydrophilic radical and at least one lipophilic radical.Most preferred is wherein

-   M trimethylsiloxy-   D=Si[(CH₃)][(CH₂)_(n)CH₃]O_(2/2) where n=0–40,-   D′=Si[(CH₃)][(CH₂)_(o)—O—PE)]O_(2/2) where PE is    (—C₂H₄O)_(a)(—C₃H₆O)_(b)H, o=0–40,-   a=1–100 and b=1–100, and

More specifically, suitable silicone sulfactants have the formula:

wherein p is 0–40, and

-   PE is (—C₂H₄O)_(a)(—C₃H₆O)_(b)—H    where x, y, z, a, and b are such that the maximum molecular weight    of the polymer is approximately about 50,000.

Another type of preferred organosiloxane emulsifier suitable for use inthe compositions of the invention are emulsifiers sold by Union Carbideunder the Silwet™ trademark. These emulsifiers are represented by thefollowing generic formulas:(Me₃Si)_(y-2)[(OSiMe₂)_(x/y)O—PE]_(y)wherein PE=—(EO)_(m)(PO)_(n)R

-   R=lower alkyl or hydrogen-   Me=methyl-   EO is polyethyleneoxy-   PO is polypropyleneoxy-   m and n are each independently 1–5000-   x and y are each independently 0–5000, and

wherein PE=—CH₂CH₂CH₂O(EO)_(m)(PO)_(n)Z

-   Z=lower alkyl or hydrogen, and-   Me, m, n, x, y, EO and PO are as described above,    with the proviso that the molecule contains a lipophilic portion and    a hydrophilic portion.

Also suitable as nonionic silicone surfactants are hydroxy-substitutedsilicones such as dimethiconol, which is defined as a dimethyl siliconesubstituted with terminal hydroxy groups.

Examples of silicone surfactants are those sold by Dow Coming under thetradename Dow Corning 3225C Formulation Aid, Dow Coming 190 Surfactant,Dow Coming 193 Surfactant, Dow Coming Q2-5200, and the like are alsosuitable. In addition, surfactants sold under the tradename Silwet byUnion Carbide, and surfactants sold by Troy Corporation under theTroysol tradename, those sold by Taiwan Surfactant Co. under thetradename Ablusoft, those sold by Hoechst under the tradename Arkophob,are also suitable for use in the invention.

Suitable cationic, anionic, zwitterionic, and amphoteric surfactants aredisclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,534,265, which is hereby incorporated byreference in its entirety.

2. Humectants

Preferably the compositions of the invention comprise 0.01 –30%,preferably 0.5–25%, more preferably 1–20% by weight of the totalcomposition of one or more humectants. Suitable humectants includematerials such as glycols, sugars, and the like. Suitable glycolsinclude polyethylene and polypropylene glycols such as PEG 4-240, whichare polyethylene glycols having from 4 to 240 repeating ethylene oxideunits; as well as C₁₋₆ alkylene glycols such as propylene glycol,butylene glycol, and the like. Suitable sugars, some of which are alsopolyhydric alcohols, are also suitable humectants. Examples of suchsugars include glucose, fructose, honey, hydrogenated honey, inositol,maltose, mannitol, maltitol, sorbitol, sucrose, xylitol, xylose, and soon. Preferably, the humectants used in the composition of the inventionare C₁₋₆, preferably C₂₋₄ alkylene glycols, most particularly butyleneglycol.

3. Other Botanical Extracts

It may be desirable to include one or more additional botanical extractsin the compositions. If so, suggested ranges are from about 0.0001 to10%, preferably about 0.0005 to 8%, more preferably about 0.001 to 5% byweight of the total composition. Suitable botanical extracts includeextracts from plants (herbs, roots, flowers, fruits, seeds) such asflowers, fruits, vegetables, and so on, including acacia (dealbata,farnesiana, senegal), acer saccharinum (sugar maple), acidopholus,acorus, aesculus, agaricus, agave, agrimonia, algae, aloe, citrus,brassica, cinnamon, orange, apple, blueberry, cranberry, peach, pear,lemon, lime, pea, seaweed, green tea, chamomile, willowbark, mulberry,poppy, and those set forth on pages 1646 through 1660 of the CTFACosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Eighth Edition, Volume 2. Preferred arebotanical extracts including Glycyrrhiza Glabra, Salix Nigra, DiooscoreaVillosa, Macrocycstis Pyrifera, Pyrus Malus, Saxifraga Sarmentosa, VitisVinifera, Morus Nigra, Scutellaria Baicalensis, Anthemis Nobilis, SalviaSclarea, Rosmarinus Officianalis, Citrus Medica Limonum, and mixturesthereof.

4. Gellants

It may be desireable to include other gellants in the oil or water phaseof the composition to provide gelling. Such gellants may be included arange of about 0.1–20%, preferably about 1–18%, more preferably about2–10% by weight of the total composition is suggested. Suitable gellantsinclude soaps, i.e. salts of water insoluble fatty acids with variousbases. Examples of soaps include the aluminum, calcium, magnesium,potassium, sodium, or zinc salts of C₆₋₃₀, preferably C₁₀₋₂₂ fattyacids.

Also suitable are hydrocolloids such as gellan gum, gum arabic,carrageenan, and those set forth in U.S. Pat. No. 6,197,319 which ishereby incorporated by reference in its entirety.

Water soluble synthetic polymeric materials are also good gellants,including polymers of acrylic acid or C₁₋₂₀ esters thereof, which may becrosslinked or uncrosslinked. Examples include Carbopol (polymer ofacrylic acid crosslinked with a polyfunctional agent which is the allylether of sucrose or the allyl ether of pentaerythritol), and the like.

5. Preservatives

The composition may contain 0.001–8%, preferably 0.01–6%, morepreferably 0.05–5% by weight of the total composition of preservatives.A variety of preservatives are suitable, including such as benzoic acid,benzyl alcohol, benzylhemiformal, benzylparaben,5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, butylparaben, phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, diazolidinylurea, calcium benzoate, calcium propionate, captan, chlorhexidinediacetate, chlorhexidine digluconate, chlorhexidine dihydrochloride,chloroacetamide, chlorobutanol, p-chloro-m-cresol, chlorophene,chlorothymol, chloroxylenol, m-cresol, o-cresol, DEDM Hydantoin, DEDMHydantoin dilaurate, dehydroacetic acid, diazolidinyl urea,dibromopropamidine diisethionate, DMDM Hydantoin, and all of thosedisclosed on pages 570 to 571 of the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook,Second Edition, 1992, which is hereby incorporated by reference.

6. Particulates

It may be desirable to incorporate one or more particulate materialssuch as pigments, powders, and the like into the claimed composition toprovide various effects. For example, inclusion of small amounts ofpowders will improve consistency of the composition and may provide amore aesthetic color. If desired, small amounts of pigments may also beincluded, particularly in the event where it is desired to provide colorto the skin. If present the particulates range from about 0.001–20%,more preferably about 0.01–18% of particulate matter having a particlesize of 0.01 to 200, preferably 0.25–100 microns. The particulate mattermay be colored or non-colored (for example white) non-pigmentitiouspowders. Suitable non-pigmentatious powders include bismuth oxychloride,titanated mica, fumed silica, spherical silica, polymethylmethacrylate,micronized teflon, boron nitride, acrylate copolymers, aluminumsilicate, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, bentonite, calcium silicate,cellulose, chalk, corn starch, diatomaceous earth, fuller's earth,glyceryl starch, hectorite, hydrated silica, kaolin, magnesium aluminumsilicate, magnesium trisilicate, maltodextrin, montmorillonite,microcrystalline cellulose, rice starch, silica, talc, mica, titaniumdioxide, zinc laurate, zinc myristate, zinc rosinate, alumina,attapulgite, calcium carbonate, calcium silicate, dextran, kaolin,nylon, silica silylate, silk powder, sericite, soy flour, tin oxide,titanium hydroxide, trimagnesium phosphate, walnut shell powder, ormixtures thereof. The above mentioned powders may be surface treatedwith lecithin, amino acids, mineral oil, silicone, or various otheragents either alone or in combination, which coat the powder surface andrender the particles more lipophilic in nature.

The particulate matter component also may comprise various organicand/or inorganic pigments. The organic pigments are generally variousaromatic types including azo, indigoid, triphenylmethane, anthraquinone,and xanthine dyes which are designated as D&C and FD&C blues, browns,greens, oranges, reds, yellows, etc. Organic pigments generally consistof insoluble metallic salts of certified color additives, referred to asthe Lakes. Inorganic pigments include iron oxides, ultramarines,chromium, chromium hydroxide colors, and mixtures thereof

The claimed compositions provide an excellent vehicle for the Rooibustea extract, and enhance the efficacy and other beneficial properties ofthe extract on the skin.

The invention will be further described in connection with the followingexamples which are set forth for the purposes of illustration only.

EXAMPLE 1

An emulsion cream was prepared as follows:

INGREDIENT w/w % Petrolatum 3.50 Squalane 2.10 Lauryl lactate 1.50Cetearyl ethylhexanoate 4.31 Propyl paraben 0.10 Ethylhexylhydroxystearate 0.10 Ethyl paraben 0.05 Jojoba seed oil 0.10 White Birchextract 0.01 Phenoxyethanol 0.70 Tocopheryl acetate 0.20 Aloebarbadensis extract 0.05 Retinyl palmitate 0.001 Kinetin 0.08Cyclomethicone/dimethicone copolyol 15.00 Cyclomethicone/dimethiconol4.00 Cyclomethicone 8.35 Quaternium-18 hectorite 2.00 Claryextract/galbanum gum extract, chamomileflower extract, 0.10 green teaextract, phenoxyethanol/rosemary leaf extract Titanium dioxide/capryliccapric triglycerides/mineral 1.00 oil/alumina/polyhydroxtearicacid/silica Sodium chloride 1.50 Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate 0.10Glycerin 4.00 Butylene glycol 2.00 PEG-4 3.00 Methyl paraben 0.20Panthenol 0.10 Aspartic acid/glutamicacid/alanine/dextrin/urea/sucrose/fructose/ 0.50 glucose/hexylene glycolGlucose/sorbitol/citric acid 3.00 Meadowsweet extract 1.00Water/saccharomyces zinc ferment/saccharomyces copper 0.01ferment/saccharomyces manganese ferment/saccharomyces ironferment/saccharomyces silicon ferment/saccharomyces potassium fermentWater/butylene glycol/Aspalanthus Linearsis leaf extract 0.05Phyllanthus Emblica fruit extract 0.01 Methoxypropylgluconamide/water0.50 Rooibus Tea Extract 0.10 Water QS

The composition was prepared by heating water, glycols, preservatives,magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, silica, glycerin and talc to 80° C. withsweep mixing. Once uniform, the carbomer solution was added with sweepagitation maintaining a temperature of 80° C. In a separate vessel oilphase ingredients (Octyl methoxycinnamate to Sorbitan stearate) weremixed with propeller agitation and heated to 80° C. Once both phasesreached 80° C. the oil phase was transferred into the water phase withfast agitation. Once the transfer was completed the composition wasneutralized with triethanolamine, followed by addition of the mica andtitanium dioxide. The mixture was homogenized for 15 minutes, thencooled to 50° C. with continuous agitation. Once the bulk was cooled to50° C. the remaining ingredients were added with mixing. The sodiumhydroxide and kinetin were premixed with water (1%) in a containerbefore adding to the mixture. The mixture was then cooled to 30° C. andpoured into suitable containers.

While the invention has been described in connection with the preferredembodiment, it is not intended to limit the scope of the invention tothe particular form set forth but, on the contrary, it is intended tocover such alternatives, modifications, and equivalents as may beincluded within the spirit and scope of the invention as defined by theappended claims.

1. A cosmetic composition comprising Rooibus tea (Aspalanthus Linearis)extract in combination with at least one silicone or at least one esteragent which is a daytime protective agent, a night time protectiveagent, or mixtures thereof.
 2. The composition of claim 1 wherein thecomposition is an emulsion form.
 3. The composition of claim 2 whereinthe emulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion.
 4. The composition of claim 2wherein the emulsion is a water-in-oil emulsion.
 5. The composition ofclaim 1 futher comprising a chemical sunscreen, a physical sunscreen, ormixtures thereof.
 6. The composition of claim 5 wherein the chemicalsunscreen is a UVA sunscreen, a UVB sunscreen, or mixtures thereof. 7.The composition of claim 6 wherein the chemical sunscreen is a mixtureof UVA and UVB sunscreens.
 8. The composition of claim 5 wherein thechemical sunscreen is a mixture of UVA and UVB sunscreens and thecomposition has an SPF of at least about
 4. 9. The composition of claim7 wherein the UVA sunscreen is dibenzoyl methane compound.
 10. Thecomposition of claim 7 wherein the UVB sunscreen is an a-cyano-β,β-diphenyl diphenyl acrylic acid ester, a benzylidene camphorcompound, a cinnamate compound, a benzophenone compound, a menthylsalicylate compound, a benzoic acid derivative, a salicylate compound,or mixtures thereof.
 11. The composition of claim 10 wherein the UVBsunscreen is Cinoxate, Homosalate, methyl anthranilate, Octocrylene,octyl methoxycinnamate, octyl salicylate, Oxybenzone, Padimate O,phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, Sulisobenzone, TEA-salicylate, andmixtures thereof.
 12. The composition of claim 5 wherein the physicalsunscreen is titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or mixtures thereof.
 13. Thecomposition of claim 9 wherein the dibenzoylmethane compound isAvobenzone, and it is present at no more than about 3% by weight of thetotal composition.
 14. The composition of claim 11 wherein the Cinoxateis present at no more than about 3% by weight of the total composition.15. The composition of claim 10 Homosalate is present at no more thanabout 15% by weight of the total composition.
 16. The composition ofclaim 10 wherein the octocrylene is present at no more than about 10% byweight of the composition.
 17. The composition of claim 10 wherein thepadimate O is present at no more than about 8% by weight of the totalcomposition.
 18. The composition of claim 9 wherein the UVA sunscreen isAvobenzone.
 19. The composition of claim 18 wherein the UVB sunscreen iscinoxate, Homosalate, Octocrylene, octyl methoxycinnamate, octylsalicylate, Oxybenzone, Padimate O, or mixtures thereof.
 20. Thecomposition of claim 19 additionally containing one or more plantextracts selected from the group consisting of Glycyrrhiza Glabra, SalixNigra, Diooscorea Villosa, Macrocycstis Pyrifera, Pyrus Malus, SaxifragaSarmentosa, Vitis Vinifera, Morus Nigra, Scutellaria Baicalensis,Anthemis Nobilis, Salvia Sclarea, Rosmarinus Officianalis, Citrus MedicaLimonum, and mixtures thereof.
 21. The composition of claim 1 furthercomprising a fatty alcohol, fatty acid, hydrocarbon, or mixturesthereof.
 22. The composition of claim 21 wherein the silicone issilicone oil comprising a cyclomethicone, dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, or mixtures thereof.
 23. The composition of claim 1further comprising one or more humectants.
 24. The composition of claim1 further comprising one or more thickening agents.
 25. The compositionof claim 1 further comprising one or more nonionic surfactants.